Cooktops, heaters and gas lines fitted, tested and certified in one visit, and a ten second check we would rather you did before you buy anything.
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The most common wasted call-out we attend is not a complicated fault. It is somebody who has bought a good appliance at a good price and did not know to check which gas it was made for.
Gas appliances are built for a specific gas. Natural gas and LPG are not interchangeable. They run at different pressures and the burner components are different, so an appliance set up for one will not run correctly on the other. This is not a case of it working a bit poorly. It is not something any licensed fitter will connect.
The information is on the appliance data plate, usually underneath or on the back, and it states the gas type plainly. Ten seconds, before money changes hands. The marketplace listing almost never mentions it, and the seller frequently does not know.
Sometimes a conversion is possible. Some models have a manufacturer kit and some do not, and where one exists it has to be the correct kit for that model, fitted by somebody licensed. Where none exists, there is nothing to be done. Send us a photo of the plate and you will know which situation you are in before you commit to anything.
No switches, no phones indoors. Turn it off at the meter only if you can reach it safely, then ring from outside.
Open up, get out, and ring from the footpath. It takes seconds and it removes almost all of the risk.
Do not operate anything electrical on the way past. That includes switching a light off, which is as much of a spark as switching one on.
Turn the supply off at the meter only if you can reach it safely. It is not worth walking through a stronger smell to get to a tap.
Natural gas and LPG run at different pressures with different burner components, different injectors and different regulators. An appliance is manufactured for one of them.
They are not interchangeable and running one on the wrong gas is not a matter of adjustment. It burns wrongly, and burning wrongly on gas is not a performance problem.
This is the most common wasted call-out we attend, and it is entirely avoidable with one look at a plate.
Usually underneath the appliance or on the back, and it states the gas type plainly. NG or Natural Gas, or LPG or Propane. There is no ambiguity in the wording.
On a cooktop that means lifting it or looking into the cupboard below. On a heater it is frequently behind the lower panel. It is worth the two minutes.
Photograph it and send it through before anybody drives anywhere. It converts a maybe into a yes or a no at no cost.
A secondhand cooktop or heater is listed by brand, size and condition. The gas type is almost never in the description and the seller frequently does not know it.
So the appliance arrives, a fitter turns up, and the answer is that it cannot be connected. That is a call-out fee for a conversation.
Check before you buy, not after. It takes one question and one photograph from the seller.
Some models have a manufacturer conversion kit and some do not, and the kit has to match the exact model rather than the brand or the range.
Where a kit exists, conversion is legitimate work done by a licensed fitter and certified afterwards. Where it does not, there is no version of this that is safe or lawful.
Nobody should be improvising injectors. An offer to do so tells you something useful about how that person works generally.
A meter on the wall with a service line from the street is natural gas. Cylinders standing beside the house, or a tank, is LPG.
Most of this suburb is on natural gas, but not all of it, and pockets on the fringes and some newer developments run bottled supply. It is worth knowing which you are rather than assuming.
If you have both, which happens where a barbecue runs off a cylinder and the house runs off the meter, then the appliance in question decides which one matters.
Adding an appliance is a calculation against total demand rather than a connection. The line has a capacity and so does the meter, and a new cooktop or continuous flow unit has to fit inside both with the existing appliances running.
Where it does not, appliances starve each other. A burner that drops off whenever somebody runs a shower is nearly always this rather than a faulty appliance.
Doing the sums first is most of the difference between an installation that works and a callback that gets blamed on the equipment.
A continuous flow hot water unit is a large draw, and adding one to an installation sized for a cooktop and a heater changes what the rest of the system sees.
This is the point at which the existing work gets looked at, which is frequently more valuable than the new appliance itself. Older work here was done to the standard of its day.
The standard of its day was not wrong. It is simply not the current one, and that is worth knowing before something is added on top of it.
Pipe sized for distance and demand, a pressure test that held, clearances from the manufacturer's own instructions, flueing to the right termination, and ventilation sized for the appliance and the room.
Every item there is covered up by the time the job is handed over, and none of it can be verified afterwards by looking.
That asymmetry is exactly what the certificate exists to close, and it is the reason an insurer asks for one rather than for an invoice.
Every gas job finishes with a compliance certificate recording who did the work, that they held a licence, and that the installation met the standard on the day.
Keep it with the property papers. It is what an insurer asks for after an incident and what a conveyancer eventually asks for at sale, and it cannot be recreated later.
If you have had gas work done and never received one, chase it up. It is not paperwork for its own sake.
Fixed price agreed before anything starts. These are indicative 2026 ranges.
Connected, tested and certified in one visit.
Plus the manufacturer kit, and only where a kit exists for that model.
Priced on the run rather than by the hour.
With the compliance certificate handed over.
Made safe at any hour, with the cause established afterwards.
A photo of the appliance data plate answers the gas type and the input rating in one go, before anybody drives anywhere.
Total demand against what the line and meter can deliver, so nothing goes onto a supply that cannot carry it.
Fitted to the Australian Standards and pressure tested before anything is signed off.
The Certificate of Compliance in your hand before we leave rather than in the post afterwards.
Get outside, leave the switches alone, and ring. A licensed gas fitter can be on the way immediately.
Call 1300 381 569It depends on which gas it was made for. Appliances are built for a specific gas: natural gas or LPG. They are not interchangeable, they run at different pressures and the burner components differ. Connecting an appliance to the wrong gas is not a matter of it working poorly, it is not something a licensed fitter will do.
The data plate, which is usually underneath or on the back. It states the gas type the appliance is set up for. It takes ten seconds to read and it is worth reading before money changes hands rather than after the thing is in your kitchen.
Sometimes. Some appliances have a manufacturer conversion kit, some do not, and where one exists it has to be the right kit for that model and fitted by somebody licensed. Where no kit exists, no amount of goodwill changes it. We will tell you which situation you are in before you commit.
Because the secondhand and marketplace trade in appliances is enormous and the listing almost never mentions gas type. People buy a good appliance at a good price and only find out when the fitter arrives. It is the single most common wasted call-out we attend.
Usually, and it is a calculation rather than a guess. Everything draws from the same supply, so the answer depends on total demand against what the line and meter can deliver.
Everyone outside first. No light switches, nothing electrical, no phone used indoors. Turn the supply off at the meter only if you can reach it safely, then ring from outside.
An appliance connection is $200 to $500. An appliance conversion, where a kit exists, is $250 to $500 plus the kit. A new gas point is $500 to $1,200. A leak test and certificate is $180 to $350.
Send a photo of the appliance data plate with your enquiry. Gas type and input rating are both on it, and between them they answer most of what we would otherwise have to ask.
Checked, calculated, installed, tested and certified, at the figure agreed first.
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